Last night in New York, I encountered a contradiction that advanced economies have learned to live with, but have not learned to explain. I had just come from dinner with friends at a Japanese restaurant where fresh cuts of meat are brought to the table and cooked at one's discretion. It had been a long day of sustained intellectual work. The meal was relaxed, the conversation unforced. At some point (almost without discussion) we agreed we had had enough. A few pieces of mea